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With the imminent surrender of one of the last great names in British
shipping to middle eastern interests I decided that I would have to
feature a trip with The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
Company as soon as possible.
Whilst the name P&O may well live on under the new ownership of Dubai
Ports World or as the P&O Princess brand of the Carnival Corporation
this once great British institution will soon cease to exist as an
independent company.
The
company's origins date back to 1822 and the formation of a partnership
between
Brodie McGhie
Wilcox and Arthur Anderson an event which even predates the foundation
of the celebrated Isle of Man Steam Packet Company.
The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company
itself was established in the 1830s and was incorporated by Royal
Charter in 1840.
P&O has
undergone many changes in recent years and today the business is
centred on Port and Logistic operations though it maintains a now
slimmed down network of services operating within the British Isles
and PRIDE OF BILBAO still sails to the Iberian Peninsular to which the
"Peninsular" in the company's name refers.
My trip to Dublin in February came
around quite by accident. I had originally considered making my voyage
with P&O on the North Sea. Intending to
visit
Rotterdam travelling via Hull on board either the PRIDE OF HULL or
PRIDE OF ROTTERDAM.
Perhaps it was my natural resistance to heading east - I think in
my whole life I have only crossed the
Pennines a couple of dozen times - that mitigated against this trip.
But whatever happened I certainly procrastinated for too long.
When
I tried to book on line early on the Sunday morning of the week I
intended to travel I found all that week's sailing's full, though
there had been space the previous day.
Plans rapidly changed and I decided to book a trip with P&O
Irish Sea to
Dublin
which did have space available. A day time return for car and two
including meals and fuel surcharge was just £111. Excellent value, so
with accommodation for three nights arranged in Dublin I booked the
trip.
P&O have always had a good
reputation for offering value for money on the Irish Sea, and though
the company's operations are not as extensive as they once were
value for money is something the company offers.
By comparison after making the
booking with P&O I checked out the fares being offered by Irish
Ferries for the same dates of travel on board the Ulysses. The booking
computer came back with a fare of over £200 for a short notice
booking, on a journey in mileage terms of half the length and
excluding food!
"The
Low Fares Ferry Company" runs Irish Ferries' slogan. Considering the
recent changes in crewing to cut costs one would expect something
cheaper even though the booking was at fairly short notice considering
the time of year.
10:00 LIVERPOOL
- DUBLIN
FEBRUARY 21, 2006
NORBANK
My
reservation with P&O was made on Sunday February 19 and within 48
hours my father and myself drew up outside the gate of the Gladstone
Dock passenger terminal around 08:00.
Anyone who has not sailed with P&O from
Liverpool would be in for something of a surprise. The passenger check in could be described as a largish shed with
a large lean-to through which vehicles drive. This is located at the
side of the former Gladstone Graving Dock. Now Gladstone #3 Branch
Dock.
Staff let cars in one at a time perform a security check and fetch
tickets. A very friendly and informal feel pervades one. It is obvious
that this is not a high volume passenger service. If you want
something special and don't want to be part of the herd this is the
way to travel!
Mine was the second car to arrive. By the time boarding commenced
there were around 10 private vehicles.
Boarding commenced just after
09:00
with private vehicles being directed to the already well filled
weather deck populated almost exclusively by freight drops.
Cars were conveniently assembled by the access stairs alongside the
funnel.
Access to the passenger accommodation is via a short two flight
staircase beside the funnel then across a bridge to the accommodation
block.
Once at the top of the steps one walks over a bridge between the
funnel structure to the open deck outside the main accommodation
block. Entering the accommodation by either port or starboard
vestibule doors one enters reception. Here there is a shop / reception
desk.
A single straight staircase leading forwards up to the cabin area
above immediately in front of the shop / reception. On NORBANK a large
picture of Koningin Beatrix, (Her majesty, not the Stena Line ship!)
graces the rear bulkhead. The ship is registered in Rotterdam and like
her sister NORBAY once operated on the North Sea. On boarding the
original "North Sea Ferries" lettering can still be seen welded to the
hull.
Glass doors either side of the staircase which still bear North Sea
Ferries logos etched on to the glass lead into the main passenger
accommodation which comprises two side lounges port and starboard and
a central bar. A toilet area is provided just before these doors.
Starboard side for men, port side for women.
This total passenger area is comparable in size to the main
passenger saloon on the
BEN-MY-CHREE not surprising given similarities of
design which has emanated from the van der Geissen ship yard. However,
on the NORBANK and NORBAY this space is dedicated to a maximum of just
114 passengers.
The side lounges are separated by a partially glazed partition from
the dining area. This, like the passenger lounges, is separated into
port and starboard areas. Mainly comprising table and 4 chairs style
facilities though with two larger central tables - ideal for groups.
The food servery being in the centre forward area which by
comparison on the
BEN-MY-CHREE
would be occupied by the shop area. Behind this and leading forward
are the kitchen and crew areas.
The food servery is on the forward
side whilst drinks, crockery and a display fridge area is provided on
the central block, the other side of the central bar.
Both NORBANK and NORBAY have a fair amount of outside deck space on
two levels. With several fixed bench seats on each level. If I recall
from my previous trip on NORBAY In 2003 she then only had plastic
loose outside seating of s similar type to that used on the Waverley -
though I may be mistaken.
Whilst there are adequate views aft, views to the side are partially
restricted by the lifeboats and lifesaving equipment on both levels of
the open passenger deck, though not quite to the same level as used to
be the case with their smaller van der Geissen cousin BEN-MY-CHREE
before her rebuild in 2004.
There is no view forward from either NORBANK or NORBAY either from
within or outside the accommodation area. This can, for a ship
enthusiast be rather frustrating especially when wanting to take
photographs!
Serving of late breakfast commenced at
09:55. Yes its included in the fare! A good
selection of the usual bacon, egg, sausages, mushrooms, beans
tomatoes, toast and egg being available from the hot buffet.
After a quick breakfast it was back outside to be greeted by a short
shower.
On the
Gladstone
#2 north berth was the bulker
FEDERAL MATANE. On the #3 coal berth
the bulker
BONITA
had been discharging her
cargo.
Ropes were off at
10:12
and NORBANK moved the short distance to
Gladstone Lock
which was entered at 10.26.
Running down to River level took around 20 minutes.
At 10:46 ropes were off and NORBANK departed from Gladstone swinging
sharply into an empty river.
Proceeding outbound via Crosby Channel there was little to see it
being low water. RR SHIELD currently operating for Norfolk Lines could
be seen in Queens Channel having already rounded the Formby bend.
The suction dredger MERSEY VENTURE was on her way out to the spoil
ground having been working the Formby Shoal.
NORBANK passed the Formby Light Float at 11.33 and Q1 at 11.40.
In bound and about to pick up the pilot was ARKLOW STAR just south of
the Liverpool Bar Light. Also approaching from the west was ATLANTIC
COMPASS inbound for Gladstone. NORBANK passed north of the Bar
Light keeping well clear of the inbound ships at 11:50 and set course
across Liverpool Bay.
Douglas Gas rig was passed at 12.15. At around the same time the
onboard bar closed and remained closed for the duration of the
sailing. By comparison on the return sailing the NORBAY's Bar remained
open from shortly after departing Dublin until the ship had almost
reached the Douglas Gas rig. Why the disparity in length of bar
opening times is a mystery. However, tea / coffee / hot chocolate and
fruit juice can be had from a dispenser (free!) in the dining area for
the duration of the sailing.
The Skerries Lighthouse in Holyhead Bay could be
seen at 14:10 and five minutes later we overtook the unladen bulker ILONA which appeared to be setting a
course south down St. George's Channel. She had been in Liverpool for
a few days. Clearly sailing empty her bow appeared easily moved by the
swell.
NORBANK was about ten miles north of Holyhead. Through the binoculars
the STENA ADVENTURE could be seen moving off from Holyhead Harbour on
her afternoon departure.
When NORBANK was roughly parallel with Holyhead Mountain and RAF
Nimrod, passed close overhead. Unfortunately I did not see it coming -
it would have made a brilliant photo.
Off South Stack NORBANK finally caught up with RR SHIELD which was
operating the Liverpool - Dublin route whilst DUBLIN VIKING was
covering for LAGAN VIKING on the Belfast service
Looking aft both STENA ADVENTURER and ULYSSES were now both out and
heading west for Dublin. The Nimrod approached NORBANK again from SE
but banked away from then appeared to do runs towards the other ships
before having one last run at the NORBANK from the NE. Presumably she
was on a training mission and using the passing ships as dummy
targets?
Around
15:30 a warship could be seen around 6 miles away heading up
St. George's
Channel from the south this changed course and headed east. I can't be
100% certain but it looked like a River Class patrol vessel.
Passengers were called for high-tea at 16:30.
An excellent selection of food was provided by the hot buffet.
Mushroom soup, chicken drumsticks, pork strips, fish, curry, good
selection of potatoes mixed veg, salad, plus yoghurts to finish. Okay
it may not have been of the same class as served on Brittany Ferries,
superb PONT-AVEN, but by Irish Sea standards it was very good. As with
the breakfast it was included in the fare. If one had paid for the
meal components with most other Irish Sea operators you would have
been looking at around £12 to £15 per person including drinks. Plus of
course you wouldn't have the opportunity to go back for second
helpings - more than enough is produced by the kitchen's to satisfy
the demands of the passengers!
By now Kish light
had been passed at 16:35 and NORBANK was in Dublin Bay. Rather
threatening clouds against the low evening sun provided for some
dramatic lighting as Poolbeg was passed at
17:00. It was noted that work was still underway on the opposite,
green North Bull light. As we approached the North Bank lighthouse
halfway up the fairway NORBANK slowed further to pass the
ARKLOW SWAN kept close in to the northern side of the channel
followed by one of the Dublin Port pilot vessels.
SAGA MOON was at the Norse Merchant
or as one should get into the habit of saying the Norfolk Line
terminal.
One advantage of sailing with P&O is that the company's terminal is
close to the East Link Bridge and is the most inland of the terminals
at Dublin Port. Therefore one has to pass all of the Dublin Port
berths offering excellent photo opportunities.
Other ships noted
included the container ships
EUCON PROGRESS and MAERSK WESTLAND at the DFT
Terminal.
The Swedish tanker
OKTAVIUS was at #3 oil berth.
At the Marine Terminals South Wall berth was Coastal
Container line COASTAL WAVE being loaded for her evening sailing back
to Liverpool.
The large German owned car carrier
ORIENTAL HIGHWAY was berthed in
Alexandra Basin
East.
At Alexandra Basin berth 32 was JONATHAN SWIFT,
obviously berthed for the evening now that she no longer operates an
evening round trip to Holyhead.
Also in the basin besides the Odlum's Silo was the
coaster OPHIR whilst at ro/ro ramp #4 was the ro/ro Finnish cargo ship
GARDEN operated by Engship also wearing the logo of car carrying
company UECC.
NORBANK slowed, swung into the entrance of Alexandra
Basin before coming astern back out onto the Liffey and on to ro/ro
ramp #4. Ropes were on, on schedule at 17:30.
At this time passengers were allowed back to their
vehicles. It
took around 25 minutes for sufficient freight drops and a couple of
accompanied trucks to be cleared, one large articulated truck which
had been parked on the ramp had to have three attempts at reversing
off before the cars could be moved. By 18:00 I was driving out of the
terminal over the East Link Bridge. The P&O Terminal is the most
convenient terminal for the city centre. Why it this convenient site
was never developed as the main Dublin Passenger terminal is a
mystery!
10:00
DUBLIN
- LIVERPOOL
FEBRUARY 24, 2006
NORBAY
I arrived at the
Dublin P&O Terminal
at 08:00.
The Dublin Terminal is certainly better laid out than that at
Liverpool. But
then again it was designed as a terminal whilst that at
Liverpool is really a modified former dry dock in a very congested
location. [One wonders why, at Liverpool, an opportunity wasn't
taken to move the P&O Terminal to one of the former NorseMerchant dock
terminals at Canada #3 or Brocklebank Docks when the Twelve Quays
terminal opened].
There was a cheery welcome from the lady at the check in box. Moving
into the compact car marshalling beside the main terminal building a
portakabin structure which I think once served as the temporary Sea
Containers terminal on the South Wall a few years back, area a
similarly cheery greeting came from the chap undertaking the security
check formalities.
Around
08:40 boarding
coupons were collected and cars drawn forward to await embarkation. I
think there were about 15 cars and vans. Just before 09:00 cars were
boarded and stowed on the weather deck of NORBAY.
On entering the accommodation the starboard side passenger
accommodation door from the reception area was locked. This appeared
to be done as many of the passengers did not follow the instructions
to check in with the purser! This instruction being repeated on
notices on the doors leading into the passenger accommodation so why
people fail to act on it must be something of a mystery! A number of
passengers just walked past the reception area and shop despite the
purser calling them back and pointing out the ship would not sail
unless all pax had checked in.
It was interesting to note that the shop on NORBAY appeared much
better stocked than that on NORBANK.
Loading of freight
continued once the cars were on board. As on the outward journey two
accompanied trucks were parked on the ramp before it was hoisted.
Further drops were then placed on the lower deck. Loading appeared to
be completed by 09:30 as the gate to the ro ro ramp was closed. In
Alexandra
Basin
the small freighter ROGER appeared to be discharging new diesel
multiple unit cars for Iarnrod Éireann from its hold.
NORBAY called up port radio and advised that the ship was ready to
depart with 49 passengers and 36 crew.
Dublin Port Radio advised of wind blowing 29 knots gusting to 36
knots.
The captain welcomed everyone on board and advised that weather
conditions were deteriorating. Around the time a squall passed over
the heavy rain suggesting time for a breakfast, so no photos of ships
in port were photographed on the way out!
I had actually already had a breakfast before leaving the Tara Towers
Hotel where I had been staying, but when one gets meals included in
the fare it made sense to ensure one had had one's moneys worth!!
I was outside again by the time Poolbeg Power Station was reached, but
missed the opportunity to photograph the car carrier and several other
ships in port.
As
noted above forward views are restricted on NORBANK and NORBAY.
However, the layout of the open deck does provide for sheltered
corners and the seat on the starboard side offered a good location to
observe the departure being sheltered from wind and rain.
Poolbeg Lighthouse was passed at 09:58.
On rounding the Baily the full force of the weather was felt, but it
was interesting to note just how capable the NORBAY was in quite
choppy conditions. She is certainly a good sea vessel and though the
seas were quite choppy for the first half of the voyage she was
remarkably stable.
At 10:23 NORBAY passed the Kish. It was quite interesting to note that
sat in this sheltered corner watching the spray pass by two wheeled
buckets used for deck cleaning which had been left in another corner
had decided to make a break for freedom and wander around the deck,
dalek style, occasionally bumping into one another until their
wanderings were ended by a passing crewman!
At 11:00 two ships where visible to. To the south what looked like a
survey vessel with an A frame (certainly not the PRINCE MADOG) as the
vessel observed had prominent exhausts could be seen heading in a NE
direction appeared and making very heavy weather. Also visible was an
east bound container ship some distance to the south.
By 12:06 the
Anglesey coast was visible. Around
12:45 SAGA MOON could be seen heading from HEYSHAM bound for
Dublin.
Visible astern to the NW was RR ARROW heading eastbound for Heysham.
Around three miles astern following NORBAY's track could be seen
Norfolk Line's LIVERPOOL VIKING. Shortly after 13.00 NORBAY was off
the Skerries and course was changed to head across Liverpool Bay.
Heading westbound
in the
a small container ship was visible, followed by a tanker,
bringing up the rear was DUBLIN VIKING heading for Dublin, now
released from her recent cover duties on the
Birkenhead - Belfast
service.
At 13:38 another container ship was passed east bound.
Around 14:45 the NORBAY's Bar Closed.
NORBAY overtook two vessels ACL's ATLANTIC COMPANION
and the Dutch cargo ship EDAMGERACHT both bound for Seaforth Dock and
slotted in, in front of the EDAMGERACHT
The Douglas Gas platform was passed at 15:00. The
container ship CAST PROSPERITY anchored at the Liverpool Bar
Anchorage. A little further east was an unidentified LPG tanker. The
Liverpool Bar Lightfloat was passed at 15:20 and Q1, marking the
beginning of Queen's Channel at 15:30.
Shortly after passing round Crosby bend passengers
were called to high-tea. Various options were offered, including
chicken, fish, "Cornish" pasties, Gammon, beef, etc plus a full range
of veg including some excellent mushy peas! I opted for the chicken.
But once everyone had been served I went back deciding to try the
"Cornish" pasties. Being something of a fan of proper Cornish pasties
I was curious to try the P&O interpretation. - I cut into it - the
immediate presence of carrots suggested that it certainly wasn't
Cornish Pasty but some other kind of pasty. Wasn't bad, but the chef
shouldn't have told people they were Cornish Pasties! However, this
was my only grumble on the whole trip! - Well I had to find something
to complain about just to prove I wasn't painting too glossy a picture
as all other aspects of the experience where highly satisfactory.
Unlike on the NORBANK there was no soup offered.
However, there was a much more comprehensive offering of sweets
including jelly and fruit, banana mousse, some cakes etc. On NORBANK
sweet course was just yoghurts.
NORBAY was off Gladstone Lock by 16:15 and secured
in the lock at 16:26. The ascent to dock level took around 25 minutes.
As NORBAY rose tugs ADSTEAM WATERLOO and COLLINGWOOD passed through
the Alexandra Dock swing bridge en-route to Seaforth to assist the
departure of the bulker SEA POWER from the Seaforth Dock scrap berth.
Some impatient passengers had by now started to try
the gate to get access to the vehicle decks. Surely they could see
that the ship had not yet berthed?
As the gates came back NORBAY made her way slowly
across to Gladstone #3 passing the FEDERAL MATANE which was still in
port. As we swung into Gladstone Branch #3 the SEA POWER was just
moving through the cut between Gladstone and Seaforth Docks.
In the main Gladstone Dock the Danish vegetable oil
tanker ORAKOTA was berthed. Meanwhile in Gladstone #2 south was the
tanker STOLT FULMAR.
Ropes were on at 17:10 and passengers were called to
their vehicles.
All in all, it was a very satisfactory trip and I would suggest that
if you have not tried the P&O service between Liverpool and Dublin you
do so soon. The service represents excellent value for money, the
vessels are comfortable, the food good and there are now crows. The
low passenger capacity sees to that. If you wish to travel with P&O it
is suggested that you book your trip soon as news reports suggest
Dubai Ports World will have completed the acquisition by March. By the
time I next cross to Ireland in the spring the old P&O company will
have gone.
What the future holds for P&O services from the UK
under the company's new
owner remains to be seen as does the future of such excellent value
for money fares.
Oh yes, and by the way I did make the point of travelling out on the
port side and returning on the starboard side. Not only is that the
more interesting coastal side on a trip from Liverpool to Dublin and
back, but given the prevailing wind direction and wind chill it was
the only side of the ship which was tenable for any period of time
outside! |
