Friday May 26, 2006
22:00 Liverpool - Dublin
My
first voyage between Liverpool and Dublin with the then Merchant
Ferries took place in May 1999, shortly after the company commenced
operations between on the route using the new Astilleros Espanoles built DAWN MERCHANT and BRAVE MERCHANT.
These ships often being referred to as the "Race Horses" given that
they were named after "Dawn Run" and "Dancing Brave" there was a
racing theme on board - with the "Winning Post Restaurant" and the
"Jockey Club Bar" and appropriate themed decor.
From 1999, though I tended to use the Sea Containers / Isle of Man Steam Packet
SUPERSEACAT TWO and THREE for day trips and occasional weekend
crossings to Dublin, for longer stays in Ireland I used Merchant
Ferries almost exclusively.
For
one reason or another most of my trips be they day or night
crossings tended to be on board DAWN MERCHANT. I really enjoyed
making these trips - the DAWN and her sister BRAVE were spacious and
well laid out. Besides on day crossings the bar, being at the front
over looking the bow, made for splendid panoramic views of sea
and coast.
During this time, Cenargo, the then owners of Merchant Ferries
bought out the operations of Norse Irish Ferries - operators of the
Liverpool - Belfast service to create Norse Merchant Ferries.
My
pattern of sailings with what had become Norse Merchant came to an
end in 2002. Cenargo where getting into a financial crisis and, DAWN
MERCHANT was sent off to the channel, and eventually the Liverpool,
later Birkenhead - Dublin service switched to freight only for a
period of time forcing me to find alternative means of crossing the
Irish Sea.
Cenargo eventually ran on to the rocks, but fortunately the
successful Norse Merchant Ferries operation survived and by the
latter half of 2005 a normal schedule had resumed on the Birkenhead
- Dublin route. For a brief period of time in autumn 2005 the "race
horses" once again operated the route.
It
was during the second half of 2005 a long running rumour was
confirmed in that the Norse Merchant had been acquired by the A.P.
Møller
- Maersk Group and would be merged into the company's existing
Norfolk Line operation.
In
October 2005 I was able to revert to the former Norse Merchant
operation and take a day time crossings from Birkenhead to Dublin
and return on BRAVE MERCHANT. [click
here for Voyage Report].
Apart from the fact that the former Norse Merchant ships now sailed
from Twelve Quays - rather than out of Canada #3 Dock it was just
like old times and I was pleased to be back on board ships I had
enjoyed travelling on in the past.
However, DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT departed from the Irish Sea and
with the arrival of the new Visentini built LAGAN VIKING [II] and
MERSEY VIKING [II] the original 1997 built Vikings by now named
DUBLIN VIKING and LIVERPOOL VIKING had been switched to the
Birkenhead - Dublin route.
The original Vikings have been
a familiar sight on the Mersey since their arrival in 1997, however,
as I don't tend to travel to Belfast I had not yet travelled I had
not yet had the pleasure of travelling on one and looked forward to
the experience.
Some people I have talked who had travelled on these vessels were
quite positive pointing the value of a forward facing open deck - a
rare feature in ship design these days.
Thus, having not really heard any previous negative comments I was
looking forward to the trip as I arrived at Twelve Quays around
19:00 on May 26. I was in the second car there, but the vehicle
lines soon began to fill, and taxis began to arrive at the adjacent
terminal building with foot passengers.
Check-in opened
around 19:30. After boarding cards were issued an information sheet
was handed out giving details of that particular sailing, weather
conditions, arrival times etc. This incidentally only appears to be
issued at Birkenhead and not Dublin for some reason.
As
it was
the start of the half-term week in the UK it was obviously going to
be a busy sailing and cars were squeezed up
tight in the marshalling lanes. Mirror "dangles" being given out
with letters D or B to indicate to staff which routes vehicles were
travelling on.
Shortly after 20:00 boarding commenced with cars following the
traditional practice of following the foot passenger boarding bus.
This led the cars down onto the landing stage. The bus heading off
to the upper deck to drop off the "footies" whilst cars were led
onto the main deck. However, a once on the main deck cars were
diverted to a large trap door which led down to a lower deck with
very low head room, there was something slightly reminiscent of the
LADY OF MANN here. This lower car deck - deck 2, which really
appears to have been designed for trade cars means that LIVERPOOL
VIKING and DUBLIN VIKING can stow standard low airdraught cars away
from the main vehicle decks, unlike DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT - this
considerably increasing the amount of space available for freight.
However, using the trade car decks for passenger cars has its
disadvantages from a passenger's point of view as will be explained
later.
After
ascending the lift to deck 5, the main passenger deck, I collected my cabin key
from reception. This adjoins a shop area which has a reasonable
range of goods.
After picking up my key I
was
directed to the main very wide and very steep central staircase,
possibly one of the steepest I have encountered on a passenger
vessel which led up to the deck 6 - the cabin deck
I
was allocated cabin B51. Passing a couple of other cabins with
"Norfolk Line or Norse Merchant" labels on them carrying "do not
disturb" messages I presumed that these were being used as
additional crew accommodation
Cabin B51 turned out to be forward facing - port side.
Out of the window I could just see the large
tanker NAVION HISPANIC moving off Tranmere,
so I didn't
linger, going out onto one of the smaller upper port side open deck
spaces. However, passing through the door vestibule I was greeted by
rather unpleasant smell - sort of disinfectant mixed with the odor
of a previously rough voyage!
After photographing the Navion tanker, I returned to the cabin for a
good look and to be honest found it somewhat disappointing. Over the
years I have travelled in quite a few cabins - probably the worst
being the vibration prone upper cabins on the former Isle of Man
Steam Packet's KING ORRY - where sleep was nigh on impossible!
The cabins on LIVERPOOL VIKING are
all four berth. However, what struck me as odd was the fact that the
upper berths, though clearly designed to be folded away had been
fixed in place with blocks of wood and labels fitted stating that
the bunk was permanently fixed! Why?!
If the cabin is only occupied by one
or two people the fixed upper berth gives an unnecessary congested
feel. on DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT had two berth cabins. The upper
berth could be folded away for single occupancy and the lower berth
converted into a seat for day use.
LIVERPOOL VIKING does not have
convertible lower berths either and unless one intends to sleep
during the day, the cabins do not lend themselves to day-time use.
As well as making the cabins feel
somewhat claustrophobic, the permanently fixed upper berth means
entering the lower berth is not as straight forward as it could be.
This is due to the pronounced lip at the bed head, obviously useful
in preventing pax rolling out in rough seas, it means one having to
perform contortions not normally necessary for getting into bed -
and I imagine for anyone with back trouble it might not be a
pleasant experience!
The shower / toilet unit in the
corner being fairly typical of those found on most vessels. After
stowing my bags I went to have a look around. Descending the stairs
to deck 5 I went into the "Liverpool Bar" - this faces the port side
of the vessel and sadly does not offer the same pleasant views that
could be had from DAWN MERCHANT and BRAVE MERCHANT and also
considerably fewer seats. The majority of passenger's attention
being drawn to the "one eyed flat screen monster" perched in the
corner. At least on DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT the TV was tucked away
in the corner of the Bar with its down dedicated seating area.
There are bench seats - reminiscent
of a tube train around three sides of this bar area supplemented by
tables and chairs. There is also a smaller area, again with tube
train seats around the side and more tables and chairs. Aft of the
bar area was a casino table - but on both crossings this appeared to
be doing little in the way of business.
The restaurant opened for dinner at around 20:30. It was certainly
well staffed with attentive crew ready to whip away a tray in the
blink of an eye. Given the large number of staff who appeared to be
present one wonders why
they don't do waiter service!
The restaurant is divided into two areas the main area for private
passengers and a side "Road Kings" area for freight drivers. On the
busy outward trip there appeared to be some segregation going on of
freight and private passengers, on the return trip which had a
lighter passenger load, people appeared to sit where they wanted. As
both freight drivers and private passengers now get inclusive meals
- one must ask if it is necessary to segregate passengers?
Food was quite good, not PONT-AVEN standards but comparable to other
Irish Sea offerings and considering it is included in the fare - one
can't really complain! After starting with soup I opted for the pork
with veg and potatoes. These meal components were served to passengers,
however, adding the gravy was a help
yourself affair.
It was interesting to note that the
gravy was placed in a container immediately adjacent to two others
one containing rhubarb crumble and the other custard. This would
suggest a high risk of cross contamination should a passenger have a
careless slip of the hand or the ship roll the thought of
gravy and rhubarb crumble, or gravy and custard - ugggghhh - makes
one shudder at the thought!
There was a good range of desserts too with ice cream, cheese and
biscuits, jelly etc. available.
After dinner I went outside to
explore - whilst the Vikings do have the forward facing outside
deck, the total area of outside space is considerably less than on
DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT. The outside areas also looked rather grubby
compared to many other ships,
worn and uncared for is probably the best description with quite a
lot of noticeable rush blushing!
Yes, these vessels work hard - but so do others and when I travelled
on BRAVE MERCHANT last October I found her much better presented as
I did P&O's NORBAY and NORBANK in February. I remained outside for a
while as the light faded on the
river ARKLOW SURF passed by inbound whilst ROYAL DAFFODIL
sailed past on an evening cruise.
After dinner I returned to the quite well filled bar for a while but could not escpae
the one eyed monster blearing in the corner with the majority of pax in a transfixed
stare. What did people do on ships before TV was installed?
After getting a pint of the black stuff I escaped to one of the few
seats in the reception area. But that is right next to the
children's
play pen full of screeching kids. Why? Nearby but around the corner
is an amusement arcade. Surely this would make a better location for
the play pen and allow some quiet seating to be placed in this area?
One thing that strikes you about
LIVERPOOL VIKING is the apparent lack of seating. Given that the
ship has a nominal passenger capacity of 340 compared to DAWN and
BRAVE MERCHANT's 250 pax capacity one must ask where do passengers
sit on day crossings?
There was adequate comfortable
seating on DAWN and BRAVE with excellent views both in the bar and
in the upper deck seating area - this was completely missing on
LIVERPOOL VIKING. To be honest I don't think I would like to do a
day time crossing on MERSEY or LIVERPOOL VIKING.
Whilst they don't offer forward
facing views the P&O twins NORBAY and NORBANK do have much better
passenger seating areas and at least good views through the side
windows.
Departure was prompt at 22:00 and we slipped away some time before
LAGAN VIKING which was still loading for Belfast. Gulf Offshore's
SEFTON SUPPORTER was in the river waiting for a lock
I retired to the cabin around the
time we reached the Bar as the ship appeared to be making good
progress it was obvious we would have an on time in Dublin and the
opportunity for sleep would be limited.
I managed to get off to sleep very quickly despite by observations
about the fixed bunks I must comment that the lower bunks were very
comfortable. However, I didn't feel as though I had been asleep long
when there was a rapping on the doors - looking at my watch it was
just 03:50. What a God
forsaken hour!
In previous overnight sailings with Norse Merchant Ferries when the
ships sailed from Canada Dock I recall Dublin wake-up calls being
early but not as early as this - but then the crossing took longer
as passage through the Liverpool Locks and Dock system could take
between 45 minutes and one hour.
I probably eat my earliest breakfast ever at around 04:15.
Afterwards I went outside and stood at the front. Poolbeg was passed
at 04:50 and almost immediately passengers were being asked to
vacate cabins. So had to rush back to the upper deck and get my bags
as crew were
already turning the bedding out of vacated cabins.
Passengers then gathered around the bar area. We were off the berth
at around 05:05. At this time I thought I would check out the main
toilets. They were not particularly well presented compared to other
ships on which I have travelled. I noted that one of the toilet
seats was broken and as with my cabin toilet the outer cover to
the vacuum flush button was missing. Small things I know - but a sign things
were not being cared for.
LIVERPOOL VIKING swung promptly and ropes were on at 05:13 two
minutes early. Freight drivers were called. I went outside again and
photographed CELTC STAR, NORBANK and STENA ADVENTURER who had followed
us in.
Car drivers were called down to deck two once the deck three freight
had cleared, though the upper deck freight was still unloading down
the ramp as cars came off.
Car passengers were off by around 05:45. Almost two hours after being
awoke!
Really one must ask is such an early call required given that the ship was
not due to depart Dublin until 10:00? Would it not be beyond the
realms of possibility to actually allocate cabins in different areas
to freight drivers and private passengers? Calling the freight
drivers first and allowing private passengers with cars on deck 2
and foot passengers a later wake up call would be an idea.
Why I suggest this is that too much time is then wasted waiting
around after initially being rushed down to breakfast! With cars and
trucks being mixed together on the main vehicle deck on DAWN and
BRAVE MERCHANT a simultaneous freight and private passenger call
made some sense, but given the amount of time taken to clear deck
three and then lift the car deck hatch a staggered call would make
sense.
June 01
22:00 Dublin - Liverpool
When sailing from Dublin it always
makes sense to get to Dublin Port in good time as the traffic in and
around Dublin can be quite congested even in the evening. I was
therefore at the port shortly after 19:00. LIVERPOOL VIKING was on
the Norfolk Line berth and ULYSSES ahead on berth 49.
Boarding began rather later than at
Birkenhead around 20:30 car passengers following the security van
rather than the boarding bus around to the ship as the handful of
foot pax travelling had been squeezed into the security van. Whilst
there were quite a lot of cars travelling most were of the higher
sided variety so once on board only three cars were directed down to
deck two. After ascending the lift, I picked up my cabin key and
realised I had left one of my bags in the car. I went back down the
lift to find the watertight door closed and locked.
Returning to reception I asked about
getting back to the car. I was told it was a good job I had realised
that I didn't have all my bags with me at this point because once
the ship sails deck two is completely off limits whilst at sea being
a watertight zone. The night security officer was summoned and after
a lot of running around trying to get the correct key to open the
door control panel cover (it took him around 15 minutes and two
visits to the bridge) I was able to retrieve my other bag.
All this running around was done very
cheerfully - but I wonder if passenger access to the car deck had
been allowed for a little longer this problem wouldn't have arisen!
People can be a bit absent minded and I am no exception. It
was not as if I had requested access half an hour after reaching the
passenger accommodation, but at most a couple of minutes - on most
ships a return to the car deck within this time scale is perfectly
possible.
For the return journey I was
allocated an inside cabin. I must admit I am not a fan of inside
cabins usually finding it difficult to sleep for some reason and
where there is an option prefer to have a window.
The inside cabin B40 was very similar
to B51 on the outward journey again with the fixed upper bunks but
no window. However, a rather unwelcoming mess was found on the
toilet / shower room floor - see photo. It looked as though someone
in mucky footwear had been in there on a wet floor and left foot
prints, a sure sign that cleaning wasn't quite up to scratch! In all
the cabin voyages on various ships I have done over the years I have
never encountered this before.
Dinner was served around 21:00 and a
good selection was on offer again - this time I opted for some
turkey for teh main course. I noted that the gravy was still in very
close proximity to the dessert!
After dinner I
went outside. LIVERPOOL VIKING departed at 22:10, with Poolbeg light
being passed at 22:24. As we sailed out of Dublin the remaining glow
of from the sun which had sunk below the western horizon sillouted
the port and its surroundings.
With most of
the seats taken in the reception area I sat for a while in the side
lounge by the bar and reflected on my LIVERPOOL VIKING experience
which had been something of a disappointment.
I retired to my
cabin around 23:30 and was again woken at 03:50 - I will credit
LIVERPOOL VIKING with the fact that this was the first time I have
managed unbroken sleep in an inside cabin the lower berths are very
comfortable! Arriving down in the restaurant around 15 minutes later
the the Seaforth Radar Tower was in sight and we only had a few
miles to run up to Twelve Quays.
After the rush
to get people down to breakfast the usual waiting around followed,
during this period I noted two of the loose seats in the reception
area were missing. However, their lashings and the metal deck
mounted securing ring remained - one wonders why this obvious trip
hazard was not removed especially given that it was near the
entrance to the children's play area.
There was a bit
of a delay whilst the freight was discharged - but even allowing for
that I had disembarked and was home before 06:00.
In summing up -
my opinion is that from a passenger point of view LIVERPOOL VIKING
is a significantly inferior ship to her predecessors - DAWN and
BRAVE MERCHANT.
There is a lack
of passenger seating suitable for a day time crossing. The cabins
are cramped, and do not offer a "day mode" - essential if there is
little in the way of day time seating on deck 5.
The bar area is
smaller and would be better located in the area now occupied by the
restaurant - at least there would be better views. There also
appears to be a lot of wasted or inappropriately used space -
amusement arcade and children's play area, the almost unused casino
as well. The Cinema also takes up a lot of space - how many people
bother watching a movie on a night crossing? The starting time
after dinner would leave very little time for sleep before the early
call!
Some
remodelling of the interiors of these ships could work wonders - but
really from this passenger's point of view it would be better if
DAWN and BRAVE MERCHANT could return from the Meditteranean.
Whilst
LIVERPOOL VIKING is a disappointment - the crew are very pleasant
and obliging - I was greatful for the amount of effort put into
allowing me to retrieve my bag from the car - I am sure given a
better ship the crew could provide an excellent service - but in my
oppinion and by comparison with P&O with whom I travelled a few
months ago, Norfolk Line is currently offering a service which at
present could only be described at mediocre.
As things stand
I have one further round trip reservation for the end of July - I am
not sure if it is on LIVERPOOL VIKING or DUBLIN VIKING or both at
this stage, but after that trip that I am not certain if I will
return considering there is the P&O alternative just across the
river.
Norfolk Line
does offer very good value for money - with significantly cheaper
fares than I recall paying for a similar crossing with Norse
Merchant back back in 2002. This is especially true if one
picks up one of the promotional fares as I had done.
However,
the overall quality of the travel experience is governed by the
available ships and that provided by Vikings can only be considered
a shadow of that provided by DAWN MERCHANT and BRAVE MERCHANT a few
years ago. |
