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Balmoral:
Liverpool – Llandudno – Menai Bridge – Puffin Island – Red Wharf Bay
Saturday 15th
July 2006
The departure of
Lady of Mann for Greek waters, and the subsequent loss of her
programme of day excursions to various North West ports, now leaves
Waverley Excursions as the only real option for taking a leisurely
coastal cruise.
Their 1949 built
motor vessel Balmoral was again scheduled to offer a programme of
sailings during July, and having the benefit of some half price
vouchers following a foreshortened Parade of Sail cruise on the
Mersey in 2005, a friend and myself booked a return trip from
Liverpool taking in calls at Llandudno and Menai Bridge and a
circumnavigation of Puffin Island and Red Wharf Bay on the Anglesey
coast.
The prospect of
another hot and sunny summer day under cloudless skies meant that a
large queue had already formed to board the Balmoral which was
berthed at the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company’s landing stage. The
original schedule had given a departure time of 10.00am but a letter
received in the week prior to the trip had revised this to 9.30am in
order to clear the stage for the arrival of Superseacat Two from
Douglas.
An added bonus was
the magnificent sight of the Crystal Serenity cruise liner anchored
in the river. She had arrived in the early hours and her passengers
were being tendered ashore by Mersey Ferries ‘Snowdrop’. It quickly
became apparent that many of those waiting to board Balmoral had not
obtained a ticket in advance and would have to purchase or collect
them on the ship, so those of us with pre booked tickets were called
forward and were able to board first, although a cursory wave of the
envelope was all that was required and no detailed examination of
the ticket took place.
Isle of Man Steam
Packet Company staff were on hand to assist the Balmoral crew and a
number of disabled passengers were driven onto the landing stage in
the Steam Packet’s small courtesy bus (which seems to pick up more
dents and scrapes every time I see it!). Assistance was also
required for some people to descend the rather acute slope that
characterises the connecting linkspan at low tide.
We made our way onto
the open deck and secured a couple of plastic chairs in a favourable
position on the port rail. At 12 Quays Liverpool Viking and Lagan
Viking were loading for their departures for Dublin and Belfast,
whilst looking up the river, Superseacat Two could already be seen
reducing speed at the Radar Tower, having made good time on her run
from Douglas - it was apparent why Balmoral’s loading was proceeding
at such a brisk pace! We were underway at just before 9.40am and
passed the fast craft off New Brighton, our anticipated time of
arrival at Llandudno being given as 12.30pm.
Once beyond Perch
Rock the rapidly progressing construction work of the Burbo Bank
wind farm could be seen, with a large jack-up crane lifting another
turbine column into position and a variety of other work vessels
dotted around the site. Almost an hour into our voyage, and having
made the turn off Formby into Queens Channel, the container vessel
Gracechurch Meteor was passed shortly followed by a Mersey Pilot
launch and MSC Venice also well loaded with containers.
Meanwhile, as the
North Hoyle wind farm came into view, the tanker CT Sun was noted at
the Bar Anchorage while Liverpool Viking was gaining ground on us
having departed 12 Quays at 10.00am. It was interesting to note that
whilst the already operative wind farm at North Hoyle consisted of
rows of six turbines, the construction at Burbo appears to consist
of seven.
Beyond the wind
farms, the North Wales coast shimmered in the heat off our port side
with recognisable landmarks from childhood summer holidays at Point
of Ayr, Rhyl, Colwyn Bay and Rhos-on-Sea easily picked out with the
aid of binoculars. Ahead, the Little Orme soon gave way to the sands
of Llandudno with it’s promenade of hotels and guest houses, and
Balmoral swung in the bay to come alongside at Llandudno pier on
schedule at 12.30pm.
Many passengers had
obviously elected to spend the afternoon in Llandudno – perhaps
reliving memories of the days of St Tudno and St Seiriol’s sailings
from Liverpool to the Welsh resort. A more detailed examination of
alighting passengers tickets made this a slow process and it was
1.15pm before those joining the cruise for the Anglesey leg were
able to come aboard. In the meantime those of us who remained on the
ship took the opportunity for lunch.
With everyone
finally boarded, Balmoral went astern into the bay only five minutes
behind the scheduled departure time of 1.45pm, swinging in the
shadow of the Great Orme and setting course for Anglesey. Through
Conwy Bay and an enterprising mariner in his motor cruiser elected
to follow in Balmoral’s wake for a while before accelerating past -
exchanging waves with some of those watching from our decks.
With little wind and
the shelter of the coast the early afternoon heat was now really
intense and my fellow traveller and I agreed that there were
probably few better ways to spend a summer afternoon than this!
Passing close to Puffin Island on our starboard side, Balmoral made
her way up the Menai Strait, picking a course through the many small
craft and affording excellent views of Beaumaris with it’s castle
and colourful houses and the restored pier at Bangor.
A short stop at
Menai Bridge – in the shadow of Telford’s magnificent suspension
bridge - allowed more passengers to board (who would be later be
brought back by coach from Llandudno) before we headed back up the
Strait to pass between Penmon Point and Puffin Island with the well
known lighthouse proclaiming ‘No Passage Landward’ reinforced by the
mournful tolling of it’s bell. The sandy expanses of Red Wharf Bay
with the town of Benllech at it’s western end signalled the turning
point for our cruise and the start of our passage back to Llandudno
and a final view of Puffin Island.
With gulls sweeping
and soaring alongside Balmoral, the Great Orme came into sight again
and the former lighthouse – now a guest house – on the Marine Drive
could be clearly seen, the late afternoon light beautifully defining
the rock strata below. As we came alongside at Llandudno pier the
captain asked that passengers redistribute themselves on deck to
correct the starboard lean which would make berthing more difficult!
The low tide made it necessary for passengers to disembark from a
narrow ramp on the small deck behind the wheelhouse, and this
coupled with the restricted size of the berth on Llandudno pier made
it another slow operation.
With the Llandudno
day trippers back on board we departed for the final leg back to
Liverpool. Venturing below deck for virtually the first time - in
pursuit of some liquid refreshment - one of the limitations of
Balmoral’s onboard facilities became apparent. Only the bar at the
forward end of the Britiannia Lounge was open, staffed by one rather
harassed operative. Consequently a lengthy queue had formed and
service was very slow – exacerbated by a shortage of small change in
the till and the somewhat ambitious pricing (a single-glass sized
bottle of wine at £3.50!).
Finally getting back
to the open deck - my travelling companion convinced that I had been
press ganged to work in the engine room – we were already
approaching North Hoyle wind farm with the turbine blades reflecting
in the evening sun. The tanker CT Sun was still present at the Bar
Anchorage and as we entered the Mersey, Superseacat Two could be
seen leaving the landing stage for the evening run back to Douglas,
whilst Dublin Viking was swinging off 12 Quays for her departure to
Dublin with Mersey Viking at the other linkspan.
The low sun bathed
the buildings of Liverpool’s famous waterfront in a wonderful golden
light and many photographic opportunities were taken by those on
board Balmoral, again causing the captain to request a
redistribution of bodies to correct our distinct lean to port!
The lights were
switched on aboard Crystal Serenity, still anchored in the river,
and the approach of a tug suggested she would soon begin to swing in
preparation for departure. Again the Steam Packet team were on hand
to assist with our arrival and we were ashore at 9.30pm with tickets
finally being checked as we made our way off the stage.
As the sun finally
set over Birkenhead, it was the end of a perfect summer day and a
very enjoyable cruise onboard the mv Balmoral. |
